Lighter,more feminine reds
There’s a common misperception in the wine world that a darker and more full-bodied red wine is better than a lighter red wine. Nonsense. Some red wine grapes are naturally lighter in color and have thinner skins that result in lighter wines. A perfect example is a young Pinot Noir from Burgundy. While some premier cru and grand cru Burgundy reds may be darker and heavier, the young AOC or Villages level Burgundies are delightfully light and even better, much more affordable than cru level wines. The style of these wines is light, lively and stylish making them some of the most feminine of red wines.
Turkey day wine styles Thanksgiving
The first Thanksgiving celebration was held in 1621 when the settlers of Plymouth Colony celebrated their first harvest after a harsh winter of privations. By November 1621 half of the Mayflower’s 102 original passengers had died. Help from local Natives in cultivating corn, fishing and hunting meant the chances of surviving the coming winter were much better, so there was much to celebrate. Written accounts of the first Thanksgiving mention the serving of venison and fowl but we don’t know what fowl was served. As a native species of the North America, it’s a good bet that wild turkeys were on the menu. Also on the menu that first Thanksgiving was venison, lobster and even seals. Read more
Robust wines and hearty Italian fare
As the temperature in Shanghai fall, I increasingly desire hearty and flavorful dishes accompanied by robust, rustic wines. It’s somewhat ironic that the region of Campania in southern Italy that doesn’t experience very cold weather has some great winter dishes and wines. Best of all you can experience delicious Campanian foods and wines here in Shanghai at Bella Napoli Ristorante e Pizzeria. Owner Guido Esposito is from a small town in Campania and the restaurant reflects his friendly and inviting character. Walking through the garden patio as you enter Bella Napoli has a calming effect that benefits your appetite. The unpretentious, warm décor of the restaurant provides a soothing sense of warmth as you embark on your winter meal. Read more
Acidic white wines best for Shanghai hairy crab
We’re in the midst of the season for the famed Shanghai hairy crab also known as the Chinese mitten crab. Once a year the most discerning of shellfish lovers get the chance to savor these delectable crustaceans. Shaoxing rice wine is often enjoyed with the crabs, however the rice wine merely neutrally accompanies but doesn’t embellish the crabs. The embellishment of the crabs is the role of the vinegar served on the side. Can the right wine act in a similar synergistic manner? My answer is an emphatic yes! Read more
Coming home from Chateau Lafite
A writer once said long ago that once you leave home as a young adult you can never truly go home again as home is a place in time and spirit. While that may be true for me, it’s certainly not true for Francois Collard of Chateau Mourgues du Gres. He travels have taken him from the esteemed halls of higher wine education the University of Agriculture in Montpellier to the rarified heights of the wine world as agriculture engineer and oenologist at Chateau Lafite Rothschild and finally brought him home. Before we delve deeper into the story of Francois and Chateau Mourgues du Gres, allow me to make some practical observations from a wine lover’s perspective. Read more
Robust wines for winter’s hearty fare
The most important winemaking region in the Czech Republic is Southern Moravia where wines have been made since Roman times. The northern region of Bohemia also produces wines. Due to climate and tradition most wines are white wines made from muller-thurgau, gruner veltiner and other varieties associated with Germany. Well-known white and red wine varieties are increasingly being cultivated. Popular domestically, unfortunately these wines are hard to find in China. Czech cooking tends to be quite heavy and filling and suitable for the long cold winters. Meats like pork, chicken and beef play a principal role. As the temperature dips in Shanghai and we prepare for another cold winter, the thought of hearty Czech meat dish with a similarly robust wine becomes ever more appealing. Read more
Spain:Best bubbly for the price
When you can afford to drink Champagne – do it! The more you drink, the more you’ll love this bubbly nectar. Perhaps the only thing you won’t love is the cost. Good, inexpensive Champagne just doesn’t exist. So what are lovers of bubbles to do? My answer is Cava, the sparkling wine of Spain.
In 1872, Josep Fatjo of the Codorniu Estate starting making sparkling wines using the same method that was already popular in Champagne. Soon other wine producers in Catalonia region around Barcelona also started making sparkling wines. Over the next century producers made some very good Cavas but unfortunately also some pretty awful ones. Cava became the world’s best-selling sparkling wine. In 1986 the Cava D.O. was established to establish regulations and oversee production. About the same time more and more producers saw the benefit of emphasizing quality not only quantity. Today, there are many good, and some excellent Cava sparklers that are very affordable. The best Cava wines are dry and tend to be more earthy and less acidic than Champagnes.
Are you sipping comfortably?
China has an appetite for Bordeaux. The wines from this southwest wine region of France are popular worldwide and have a privileged position in the China wine market. There are reasons. Bordeaux is big and no other wine region produces so many good and even great wines. However, over the past three or four decades the prices of Bordeaux’s best wines have risen exponentially? Bordeaux has become a land of the rich and poor with the great Chateaux getting richer and the lesser Chateaux getting poorer. This begs a question, are the great wines of Bordeaux worth their exorbitant prices? No, unless of course someone else is buying. Even a better question is, can bargains still be found in Bordeaux? Yes! Read more
Enjoying wine with your nose
Blessed by abundant natural resources, Chile offers some of the world’s most intriguing foods and wines. Vines were first planted in Chile in the mid 16th century by Spanish missionaries and settlers making the country one of the oldest of the new world producers. Over the past three decades, new investment in technology and winemaking skills has resulted in a vast improvement in quality. In fact, many consider the price quality ratio of Chilean wines to be the best in the world. Read more
Comfort wines for Danish fare
Denmark is a not a wine growing country but the Danish have developed an interesting concept of “hygge” which means something like a feeling of well-being, warm, comfortable or cozy. The traditional cuisine of Denmark has a lot of comfort foods and is sometimes referred to as a buttery cuisine. In this week’s column I’ll pick two traditional Danish dishes and match them with “comfort wines”, wines that contribute to the Danish feeling of hygge. Read more